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Pirate
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The early 1980s marked a turning point in McLaren and Westwood’s career. McLaren was immersed in music and Westwood, for the first time, began to see herself as a fashion designer. But she needed a new direction, saying: We wanted to get out of that underground tunnel feeling of England, that dark feeling. McLaren said, Do something romantic. Look at history.
The shop was again remodelled and settled on its final apotheosis of World’s End. The interior became a lurching galleon with small windows, a low ceiling and a sloped decking floor. The shopfront had a drooping slate gable and a large clock displaying 13 hours, the hands travelling rapidly back in time.
Out of it came Pirate, McLaren and Westwood’s first catwalk collection. It was shown at London Olympia in spring 1981, to a blast of cannon fire and rap music. The clothes evoked the golden age of piracy, an age of highwaymen, dandies and buccaneers. As in Punk, the garments were unisex. The collection immediately entered the mainstream and McLaren and Westwood gained a new reputation, as serious and marketable designers.
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Pirate outfit
by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren
Pirate, 1981
Jacket, with running stitch detail: wool flannel
Shirt: printed cotton
Trousers and jacket: silk
Sashes: cotton
Waistcoat: brocade
Hat: felt, with gold tassel and cockade trim
Shoes: cotton
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
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Jacket and petti-dawers
by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren
Pirate, 1981
Club owners Miachael and Gerlinde Costiff were at the pirate show: It was the most extraordinary thing you have ever seen It was absolutely magical. There was a glitter of gold, that whole, swashbuckling, heroic feeling. It was just stunning, particularly at that grey time. Vivienne’s work had been monochrome up until then, black on black. To see that colour, the GOLD.
Jacket, with sleeve inserts: cotton brocade
Shirt: printed cotton
Petti-drawers: cotton
Sashes: cotton
Hat: felt
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
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Left:
Leather suit
by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren
Pirate, 1981
Leather, with synthetic fringing
Worn by a member of the band Bow Wow Wow
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
Right:
Outfit
by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren
Pirate, 1981
I’d seen an engraving of a pirate whose trousers were all kind of rumpled about the crotch. I wanted to do that, but couldn’t until I found a book that showed how people made breeches in those days. I found that the shape of the trousers quite, quite different. Once I realised that, I got my look. I wanted that rakish look of clothes didn’t fit.
Top: printed cotton jersey with cotton shirting Purchased with the assistance of the National Collections Fund
V&A: T.112-2002
Trousers: chamois leather
Belt: leather
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
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