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Nostalgia of Mud
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Westwood’s horizon opened and expanded. With the help of McLaren, she devised new collections based on ethnic and primitive looks culled from National Geographic magazine. Their second collection was called Savage (Spring/Summer 1982). It combined Native American patterns with leather frock coats, Foreign Legion hats worn back-to-front, petti-drawers and shorts.
Then came Nostalgia of Mud (Autumn/Winter 1982), with its huge tattered skirts and sheepskin jackets in muddy colours. Punkature (Spring/Summer 1983) still had a raw feeling and an emphasis on pre-washed and over printed natural fabrics. It played on the words punk and couture, and carried images from Ridley Scott’s film Blade Runner.
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Front:
Buffalo outfit
by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren
Nostalgia of Mud, A/W 1982
The skirts were inspired by a photograph of dancing Peruvian women. The pattern was taken from a woodblock print on a record cover. Wrap skirt: printed cotton, with machine embroidered flowers and knitted trim Underskirt: hand-dyed synthetic wadding Hooded top: perforated cotton
Mountain hat: wool
Brassiere: satin and leather
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
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Outfit
Punkature, S/S 1983
Half shirt: cotton
Brim hat: straw
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
Shorts with braces: cotton, leather and metal
Given by Gavin Fry
V&A: T.587:3-1996
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Left:
Déshabillé outfit
Punkature, S/S 1983
Trousers with braces: cotton, leather and metal
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
Dress with train: cotton
Purchased with the assistance of the National Collections Fund
V&A: T.151-2002
Mountain hat: straw
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
Right:
Déshabillé dress and skirt
Punkature, S/S 1983
Dress: cotton
Skirt with braces: cotton, leather and metal
Two-piece top hat: straw
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
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