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Mini-Crini and Harris Tweed
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The Mini-Crini collection saw an increasingly shaped look, the antithesis of the masculine shoulder pads and tight hip styles that were current in the 1980s. Westwood’s historical research had led her to believe that clothes were about changing the shape of the body, about having a restriction. She now wanted to make things that fitted.
Inspired by the ballet Petrushka, Westwood devised a mini-crini that combined the tutu with an abbreviated form of the Victorian crinoline. Though sexy, the mini-crini was also childish. Its shape echoed the old-fashioned party frock, while the stars, polka dots and stripes came out of Disney cartoons.
The Harris tweed collection celebrated Westwood’s love affair with traditional British clothing and also her growing obsession with royalty. It was named after the woollen fabric hand-woven in the Western Isles of Scotland. Many of the garments - the twinsets made by Smedley, the Stature of Liberty corsets, the tailored Savile jackets - became Westwood classics.
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Deep Sky
Mini-Crini, S/S 1985
Deep Sky blazer: viscose
Crini: cotton, with plastic boning
Blouse: cotton
Belt and shoes: leather
Hat: straw
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
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Davey Crockett
Mini-Crini, S/S 1985
Cape: fringed denim
Crini: recycled denim, with plastic boning
Top: cotton
Belt: leather
Hat: straw
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
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Maid
Mini-Crini, S/S 1985
The frames were made of fake whalebone: if you’re on a crowded tube, it always springs back after being squashed.
Crini: viscose, with plastic boning
Blouse: viscose
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
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Sweater Girl
Mini-Crini, S/S 1985
Westwood found that sex appeal and absurdity were very close. The mini-crinoline moves and sways, constantly revealing areas of flesh. Sometimes it’s quite stiff and sometimes it’s wiggly, depending on the fabric.
Crini: cotton, with plastic boning
Purchased with the assistance of the National Collections Fund
V&A: T.190:2-2002
Twinset: cotton, made by John Smedley
Shoes: leather
Belt: leather
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
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Far left:
Bride of Fortune
Harris Tweed, A/W 1987
Of the Harris tweed crown, Westwood said: It’s comic, but terribly chic. I like to keep it on when I’m having dinner. It’s so English.
Tippet: fake fur
Skirt: tulle
Stature of Liberty corset: synthetic
Crown: wool
Rocking Horse shoes: leather
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
Left:
Prince suit
Harris Tweed, A/W 1987
Vivienne Westwood devised a matching shirt tie, in which the tie could be unbuttoned and laundered. This set a trend.
Prince jacket, with trapeze back, and Classic
trousers: cotton velvet
Shirt and tie: linen
John Bull hat: felt
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
Right:
Princess suit
Harris Tweed, A/W 1987
My whole idea for this collection was stolen a little girl I saw on the Tube one day. She couldn’t have been more than 14. She had a little plaited bun, a Harris tweed jacket and a bag with a of ballet shoes in it.
Jacket, crini and Peruvian hat: Harris tweed, plastic boning in the crini
Cardigan: wool
Necklace: synthetic
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
Far right:
Love suit
Harris Tweed, A/W 1987
Barathea is a wool traditionally used for uniforms and riding wear.
Love jacket: barathea
Polo neck: knitted wool
Criniscule skirt: Tattershall check wool
Rocking Horse boots: leather
Hat: wool and felt
Necklace: synthetic
Lent by Vivienne Westwood
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